October 05, 2004

Update from Ubud



Today was another wonderful day,hot and sunny, not so humid (thank heavens!) We spent most of the day touring the town, walking forever in the heat. One can only hope that some of the pounds will be lost in the effort! Interesting to note that so many of the tourists that are here are Japanese. Many of the Balinese that we know from past visits have learned to speak Japanese to sell their wares. Even the women in the marketplace seem to be able to communicate on at least a basic level. Wow! You certainly can’t say that they are not doing everything they can to earn a living!
This morning after breakfast on the deck, about 8am, we noticed 5 women come to work in the rice field beside our room. It was harvest time and we watched with interest as they set about cutting the rice stalks and setting up a huge old drum to beat it on. We took some video and photos and were amazed at how hard they worked! The next time that I eat rice, I will do so with a new respect for the effort it takes to bring it to my table! At 5pm, when we returned from our day of exploring, Most of the field was done and they were still hard at it for almost 2 more hours. It took two of them to lift each of the many sacks that they had filled. Again we watched and filmed as they beat the rice out of the stalks, then sorted the chaff, then sifted the rice before putting it into bags. We have noticed many times that it is the women who work the hardest here in Bali. Jim thinks that I should take better note of the local custom. He seems to think that there is something to learn from it! We watch women carry cement, work in construction, run most of the shops, harvest and do most all of the jobs around. The men seem to appear for brief times to check on the progress, or supervise. Ummmmm??
We will hire a driver in a couple of days to take us to the beaches in the south of the island. Want to explore some of the areas south of Kuta that we have not been to before. . Tomorrow will be a lazy day I think. Book time! Only have one left so better start looking for a book exchange.
By the way, if you notice typos in these updates, kindly ignore. Often typing so fast that I cannot get it all right as these connections have a habit of disappearing and I donÂ’t want to lose what I have already done.
Take care all
xxx

October 03, 2004

And today's home is?

The sounds of frogs and geishas at night...The roosters and children in the early morning and banana pancake served on our deck for breakfast....Yes, we are back in Ubud, Bali!
It is 30 degrees and very humid - hot even for the Balinese they tell us! The rains have not come yet and they will be a welcome relief from the mugginess whey they do.
We were met at the airport by Made, who was a beautiful and very welcome site in her traditional dress after the ordeal of entering the country. In January of this year, Bali introduced a $25 US visa charge. It took 1 1/2 hours standing in first one line to pay for the visa and then another line to clear 2 immigration officials (one checks the passport and the other to stamp the visa!). Then a carryon luggage scan and then a customs lineup for luggage! Not a good introduction to an island already reeling from a dramatic drop in tourism due to terrorist actions. A bomb in the tourist area of Kuta (not the action of Balinese people) frightened tourists away 2 years ago, and more recently, just as business was beginning to recover, a bomb outside the Australian embassy in Jakarta, has caused governments around the world to issue new warnings against travel to Indonesia which includes Bali. The new fees (which go to Jakarta and do not stay in Bali) and the arduous lineups, which really did nothing to enhance security, can only further the downslide of tourist income so vital to the economy of the peaceful Balinese people. For the first time in all our visits we hear locals comment that Bali would be better off if it were independent of Jakarta glimpse of events to come? Time will tell. I do know that all of our travel has given us a heightened sense of our surroundings and we feel very safe here. Granted, we typically do not stay in areas that are mainly tourist destinations, such as the Kuta beach area here. Listening to our instincts and to the people around us have been good barometers in past. We did not feel welcome in Morocco a year ago and were rightfully tense in Sri Lanka. Here, we feel safe.
Enough on the political climate of Bali and on to our agenda for our stay here. We are staying in a family owned 'compound' in Ubud run by a remarkable woman named Made Pramesti and her backbend. She has given us "our" room in one of the two 2-story bungalows (any pictures will have to wait till I have a connection in Bangkok). We have a big bedroom, bath and a deck overlooking the garden and ricefield, and with our breakfast included, it costs us 70,000 rupee (about 8.80 US) for both of us. A favourite restaurant just down the road for dinner last nite - I had Cap Cay (veg and chicken) and Jim had glazed pork and with 2 Lassies (fruit drinks) and tip, we cam away feeling good at just under $10. Bali is still a bargain!
Some of you may have seen the beautiful doll-puppet that I shipped to Canada last year. Because we had so little time then, I bought the doll from a retail shop. Today, with Made's help, we are going to the home of the couple that make them to custom order some. Tonite we are off to a ceremony at one of the temples. Tomorrow we plan to walk! If you have ever heard the beckoning calls of shopkeepers trying to entice you into their shops to browse their wares you will understand that we are going "loooking, looking, looking"
All for now from Ubud.
luv